row2k Features
Boathouse Hacks
Pre-Loaded CLAMs
November 14, 2012
row2k hackers

All set for (from L to R): the pair, the four, the eight.

Ever find yourself looking for just one CLAM when coach announces the set your boat is using should have one? If so, then this trick might help at your place: store the CLAMs on the oars themselves, so you always have the ones you need handy. Seem too obvious for hack-worthy tip? Not if you've got your oars and shells rigged so that one or two "oar-stored" CLAMs are all you need to row any shell in the boathouse.

That's right: the real trick here is using the clever CLAM accessory to make sure that when you have folks hopping into different size boats but need to use the same oar set over and over, that you have a simple, and quick system to make the necessary load adjustments. As we head into a part of the year when the smaller boats get some play on training trips and the like, this could be a timely tip.

We caught the guys at the Princeton Training Center using his trick back in the late nineties, when CLAMs really started becoming a a common accessory. Since these guys were frequently switching from pairs to fours and then to the eight--sometimes all in a single day's worth of training rows--every PTC oar had two CLAMs on it at all times, either in front of the button or behind it. As the guys switched from bigger boats to smaller boats, they'd move one, or two, CLAMs from the back of the button to the front. It was a pretty simple formula on those training oars: 2 CLAMs for a row in the pair, one for a row in the fours, and both CLAMs behind the button for a row in the eight. (This was a training trick, in the main, so if any finer load adjustments would needed, they were either taken care of in the rigging or added in as the guys switched to the oars they would actually race with in Europe).

The beauty of the system is that it saves a lot of time: the same oars can be used no matter what sort of boats you are headed out in, and no one has to go hunting through the boat bay for one stray CLAM. It is not just an elite rower trick either: we've seen it in action at a few club programs that are doing much the same kind of training in the run-up to Club Nationals and Canadian Henley. Sure, you might need a few extra CLAMs on hand, but you lose a lot fewer this way--and you get to worry a bit less about whether everyone has the right number of CLAMs out on the water before the seat-racing starts.

Got a slick system that makes things run smoothly at your place? Share your tips--and hacks--in the comments below.

Have a great rowing hack to suggest for future inclusion here? Send it to us!

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Comments

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mattamhop
11/14/2012  10:30:26 PM
I'm fuzzy on the whole idea of a CLAM. While I understand changing load for conditions, size of boat, etc it seems to me that just changing the inboard is a very bad idea. Our rowers' bodies get settled into the geometry provided by a certain inboard. To go and change that seems like inviting injury as they subconsciously compensate for the change by leaning, loading one leg over the other, etc. It seems to me that we really should be doing is adjusting the outboard when we want to tweek the load through the oar, not messing with how the rower interfaces with the oar. Thoughts on this?


BNC-Stewie
11/15/2012  4:20:44 PM
Adding a CLAM changes the inboard/outboard by 1cm (adds 1cm to inboard and subtracts 1cm from outboard). This is an absolutely tiny change to the geometry as regards the movement of the hands through the stroke, but because of the length of the outboard loom the change to the force geometry is significant. If you really want to maintain the geometry, use a CLAM and then shorten the length of the oar at the handle by 1cm. You then have a shorter outboard and the same inboard.



Mitch
11/16/2012  9:58:03 AM
Actually, the geometry should stay pretty much the same, in this case. It's very unlikely that your spreads are the same from 8+ to 4- to 2-. In fact, about 1 cm difference is fairly common. So you could hypothetically be moving from 83 / 113 (8+) to 84 / 114 (4-) to 85 / 115 (2-). Handle is a constant 30 cm from the gate no matter what, but the gearing is very different.



mattamhop
11/18/2012  7:32:24 PM
Yup, I hear you but I'm not sold. I coach sculls now, but even in my 20+ years of coaching a mostly sweep team centimeters made a difference. My scullers shun any oars that mess with their beloved overlaps- even by half a cm. That internal geometry matters a lot, even in the sweep boats. I had an athlete who experience back pain after I changed the inboards on their oars and it went away when I changed them back... hmmm. She was compensating for that cm. I'm pretty suspicious that sweep rowers set their own spread with how they sit in the boats. The few cm's that coaches spend so much time with out on the rigger are really nothing compared to the asymetries that you find in folks bodies (leaning, not sitting square on the seat, driving harder with one leg over another. Even in sculled boats I see this, but there the boat turns and the rower can see the problem. In the middle of an eight, Suzy can sit 4 cm off center, effectively rowing a very different spread than the coach intended and she will never know it... until the back problems begin. Find me oars/sculls that adjust from the blade side rather than the handle side and I will be sold.



BNC-Stewie
11/20/2012  2:46:01 PM
Like I say, if you think it's that important, then move the button out and then shorten the handle (if fully-adjustable blades). Same inboard, shorter outboard so lighter loading. CLAMs are just a quick-fix.



Punisher
11/14/2012  12:00:46 PM
Whats wrong is that the CLAM is upside down. The Hack to prevent it is to write THIS SIDE FACES THE WATER on the flat side and to punish slack-brain rowers with 10 boat strap lashings for incompetence


BNC-Stewie
11/15/2012  4:24:26 PM
"This side against gate" is pretty unambiguous. Until it rubs off after a week.




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